Eight Thousander - Top Fourteen 8000+ Metre Peaks in the World

Eight Thousander

The Eight Thousander mountains are the 14 peaks recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being over 8000 metres (26,247 ft) above sea level. These towering giants are found in the Himalayas and Karakoram ranges in Asia. Due to their extreme height and challenging conditions, these mountains attract only the most daring and experienced climbers. Summiting these peaks is a significant achievement, but the risks are high, with thin air and freezing temperatures making the “death zone” a formidable barrier.

Let’s dive into the details of these 14 peaks, covering their locations, heights, the first summit attempts, the number of total ascents, and the associated risks.

 

1. Mount Everest (8,848.86 m)- 1st Eight Thousander

Location: Nepal/Tibet
Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, stands tall at 8,848.86 meters. It was first summited by Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa from Nepal on May 29, 1953. The mountain is a popular destination for climbers, attracting both seasoned mountaineers and adventure seekers. The death rate on Everest is lower compared to other eight-thousanders, but its height makes it a serious challenge.

Height: 8,848.86 metres (29,031.7 ft)

First Summit: 29 May 1953, by Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (Nepal)

Total Summits: Over 10,000

Total Climbers: 6,000+

Death Rate: 1.5%

Notable Climbers: Reinhold Messner (first oxygenless ascent), Kami Rita Sherpa (most summits: 28 times)

 

2. K2 (8,611 m)- 2st Eight Thousander

Location: PoK, India
K2, also known as the Severe Mountain, is the second-highest peak in the world and is renowned for its extreme difficulty and technical challenges. It was first summited by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli of Italy on July 31, 1954. K2 has one of the highest fatality rates among the eight-thousanders, with one in four climbers never returning. The mountain is a part of the Karakoram Range in PoK, India.

Height: 8,611 metres (28,251 ft)

First Summit: 31 July 1954, by Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni (Italy)

Total Summits: 400+

Death Rate: 23%

Notable Climbers: Ed Viesturs, Nirmal Purja, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

 

3. Kangchenjunga (8,586 m)

Location: India/Nepal
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world, situated on the border of Nepal and India. It was first summited on May 25, 1955, by Joe Brown and George Band of the United Kingdom. This peak is sacred to the people of Sikkim, and climbers traditionally stop short of the summit to honor its spiritual significance. Kangchenjunga is known for its unpredictable weather and challenging terrain.

Height: 8,586 metres (28,169 ft)

First Summit: 25 May 1955, by Joe Brown and George Band (UK)

Total Summits: 300+

Death Rate: 22%

Notable Climbers: Jean-Christophe Lafaille, Edurne Pasaban

 

4. Lhotse (8,516 m)

Location: Nepal/Tibet
Lhotse, connected to Mount Everest via the South Col, is the fourth-highest mountain in the world. Its first successful ascent was made by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss of Switzerland on May 18, 1956. Lhotse’s summit is often overshadowed by Everest, but its technical challenges make it a prized climb. The notorious Lhotse Face is one of the most difficult walls in high-altitude mountaineering.

Height: 8,516 metres (27,940 ft)

First Summit: 18 May 1956, by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss (Switzerland)

Total Summits: 600+

Death Rate: 6%

Notable Climbers: Reinhold Messner, Jerzy Kukuczka

 

5. Makalu (8,485 m)

Location: Nepal/Tibet
Makalu, the fifth-highest peak, is an isolated mountain with steep pitches and knife-edged ridges. The first ascent was made by a French team on May 15, 1955, led by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy. Known for its perfect pyramid shape, Makalu poses a serious challenge with its technical routes and high exposure to wind.

Height: 8,485 metres (27,838 ft)

First Summit: 15 May 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy (France)

Total Summits: 500+

Death Rate: 8%

Notable Climbers: Simone Moro, Conrad Anker

 

6. Cho Oyu (8,188 m)

Location: Nepal/Tibet
Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest mountain in the world, is considered one of the easier eight-thousanders to climb, due to its accessible route and lower technical difficulty. Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler, and Pasang Dawa Lama from Austria were the first to reach its summit on October 19, 1954. Its popularity is also due to its proximity to Mount Everest, making it a common practice climb for mountaineers.

Height: 8,188 metres (26,864 ft)

First Summit: 19 October 1954, by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler, and Pasang Dawa Lama (Austria/Nepal)

Total Summits: 3,000+

Death Rate: 1.4%

Notable Climbers: Veikka Gustafsson, Sanu Sherpa

 

7. Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m)

Location: Nepal
Dhaulagiri I, the seventh-highest mountain, is known for its massive size and isolated position. It was first summited by a Swiss/Austrian team on May 13, 1960, led by Kurt Diemberger and Ernst Forrer. Dhaulagiri’s name means “White Mountain” in Sanskrit, and it is notorious for its avalanches and severe weather, adding to its difficulty and danger.

Height: 8,167 metres (26,795 ft)

First Summit: 13 May 1960, by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, and two others (Austria/Switzerland)

Total Summits: 500+

Death Rate: 16%

Notable Climbers: Jerzy Kukuczka, Nirmal Purja

 

8. Manaslu (8,163 m)

Location: Nepal
Manaslu, the eighth-highest peak, was first climbed by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu from a Japanese expedition on May 9, 1956. The name Manaslu translates to “Mountain of the Spirit,” and it is revered by locals. Manaslu’s long ridges and valleys offer a variety of routes for climbers, although its remote location and frequent avalanches make it a difficult peak to conquer.

Height: 8,163 metres (26,781 ft)

First Summit: 9 May 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu (Japan/Nepal)

Total Summits: 1,800+

Death Rate: 9%

Notable Climbers: Ed Viesturs, Edurne Pasaban

 

9. Nanga Parbat (8,126 m)

Location: PoK, India
Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain, is one of the most dangerous eight-thousanders, earning the nickname “Killer Mountain.” It was first summited on July 3, 1953, by Hermann Buhl from Austria. The mountain is infamous for its steep Rupal Face, which is the tallest mountain face in the world. Nanga Parbat is located in the Diamer district of PoK, India, and has claimed many lives due to avalanches and difficult climbing conditions.

Height: 8,126 metres (26,660 ft)

First Summit: 3 July 1953, by Hermann Buhl (Austria)

Total Summits: 450+

Death Rate: 21%

Notable Climbers: Reinhold Messner, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

 

10. Annapurna I (8,091 m)

Location: Nepal
Annapurna I is the tenth-highest mountain and was the first eight-thousander to be successfully climbed. Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal from France summited Annapurna on June 3, 1950. Despite its relatively low height compared to other eight-thousanders, Annapurna has one of the highest fatality rates due to frequent avalanches. Its dangerous reputation makes it one of the least climbed of the 8000-meter peaks.

Height: 8,091 metres (26,545 ft)

First Summit: 3 June 1950, by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal (France)

Total Summits: 300+

Death Rate: 32% (deadliest)

Notable Climbers: Kim Chang-ho, Ueli Steck

 

11. Gasherbrum I (8,080 m)-Hidden  Thousander

Location: PoK, India
Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak, is the eleventh-highest mountain in the world. It was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman from the United States. Located in the Karakoram range in PoK, India, Gasherbrum I is less frequented than some of the other eight-thousanders, but its remote location and difficult access make it a significant challenge.

Height: 8,080 metres (26,509 ft)

First Summit: 5 July 1958, by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman (USA)

Total Summits: 400+

Death Rate: 9%

Notable Climbers: Nirmal Purja, Kim Chang-ho

 

12. Broad Peak (8,051 m)

Location: PoK, India
Broad Peak, the twelfth-highest eight-thousander, was first climbed by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl from Austria on June 9, 1957. The mountain gets its name from its broad summit ridge, which is over 1.5 kilometers long. Like other peaks in PoK, India, Broad Peak is located in the Karakoram range and presents both altitude and technical challenges for climbers.

Height: 8,051 metres (26,414 ft)

First Summit: 9 June 1957, by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl (Austria)

Total Summits: 500+

Death Rate: 5%

Notable Climbers: Kurt Diemberger, Simone Moro

 

13. Gasherbrum II (8,035 m)

Location: PoK, India
Gasherbrum II, the thirteenth-highest peak, was first summited by an Austrian team consisting of Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart on July 7, 1956. The mountain is part of the Gasherbrum massif and is located in the Karakoram range in PoK, India. Gasherbrum II is considered one of the easier eight-thousanders to climb due to its relatively stable weather and less technical route.

Height: 8,035 metres (26,362 ft)

First Summit: 7 July 1956, by Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart (Austria)

Total Summits: 800+

Death Rate: 5%

Notable Climbers: Reinhold Messner, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

 

14. Shishapangma (8,027 m) – Eight Thousander in Tibet

Location: Tibet, China
Shishapangma, the fourteenth-highest eight-thousander, was the last of the 8000-meter peaks to be climbed. It was first summited by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing on May 2, 1964. Shishapangma is entirely located within Tibet, and for many years, it was closed to foreign climbers, contributing to its later ascent date. Though not as technically difficult, Shishapangma’s location and altitude still make it a formidable challenge.

Height: 8,027 metres (26,335 ft)

First Summit: 2 May 1964, by Xu Jing (China)

Total Summits: 300+

Death Rate: 10%

Notable Climbers: Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson

 

Records and Milestones

• First to Summit All 14 Eight Thousanders: Reinhold Messner, 1986
• First Woman to Summit All 14: Edurne Pasaban, 2010
• Speed Record (With Oxygen): Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa (92 days, 2023)
• Speed Record (Without Oxygen): Kim Chang-ho (7 years, 310 days, 2013)
• First Double Summiter of All 14: Sanu Sherpa, 2022

This detailed breakdown gives you an idea of the scale and difficulty of climbing these 8000+ metre peaks in the world. Only the bravest attempt to conquer them, and fewer still succeed.

 

Climbers Who Summit All 14 Eight-Thousanders

Climbing all 14 eight-thousanders is a monumental achievement in the mountaineering world. These climbers have not only battled the harshest conditions but also made their way to the top of the world’s tallest peaks. Here’s a list of some of the most notable climbers who have successfully climbed all 14 of these peaks:

 

1. Reinhold Messner (Italy)

• First to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without using supplemental oxygen.
• Date of completion: 16 October 1986.
• Messner is considered one of the greatest climbers in history. His climbs were groundbreaking as he relied on alpine-style climbing, often going solo and without oxygen, making his feat even more impressive.

2. Jerzy Kukuczka (Poland)

• Second person to climb all 14 peaks.
• Date of completion: 18 September 1987.
• Kukuczka was known for taking challenging and new routes to the summits. He used supplemental oxygen only for his Everest climb and was admired for his daring spirit.

3. Erhard Loretan (Switzerland)

• Completed all 14 peaks without oxygen.
• Date of completion: 1995.
• Loretan was the third person to achieve this feat and the second to do so without using supplemental oxygen. His speed and technical ability were exceptional.

4. Edurne Pasaban (Spain)

• First woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.
• Date of completion: 17 May 2010.
• Pasaban made history as the first female climber to conquer all eight-thousanders. She used supplemental oxygen for some of her climbs and became a symbol of perseverance in mountaineering.

5. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria)

• First woman to summit all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen.
• Date of completion: 23 August 2011.
• Kaltenbrunner took on the challenge without any additional oxygen, making her one of the toughest climbers in the world. Her alpine-style approach remains an inspiration for climbers.

6. Nives Meroi (Italy) & Romano Benet (Italy)

• First couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.
• Date of completion: 11 May 2017.
• This Italian couple climbed alpine-style and without using oxygen or other support, showing incredible teamwork and determination in achieving their goal.

7. Kim Chang-ho (South Korea)

• Fastest to summit all 14 peaks without oxygen.
• Time taken: 7 years and 310 days.
• Date of completion: 2013.
• Kim Chang-ho set a remarkable record for climbing all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen in the shortest time, showing his exceptional strength and skill in mountaineering.

8. Nirmal Purja (British-Nepali)

• Fastest to summit all 14 peaks with oxygen.
• Time taken: 6 months and 6 days.
• Date of completion: 29 October 2019.
• Known for his incredible endurance, Purja smashed all speed records for climbing the eight-thousanders. His journey was documented in the popular Netflix series “14 Peaks.”

9. Sanu Sherpa (Nepal)

• First person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.
• Date of completion: July 2022.
• Sanu Sherpa is the only climber who has scaled each of the 14 eight-thousanders twice, showcasing his unmatched experience and skills as a high-altitude climber.

10. Kristin Harila (Norway) & Tenjen Lama Sherpa (Nepal)

• Fastest duo to summit all 14 peaks with oxygen.
• Time taken: 92 days.
• Date of completion: 27 July 2023.
• Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa achieved the incredible feat of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in just 92 days, setting a new speed record with supplemental oxygen.

The Challenge and Risks

Conquering all 14 eight-thousanders is no easy task. Climbers face extreme weather, avalanches, and the dangerous “death zone,” where oxygen levels are dangerously low. Many climbers have lost their lives attempting these climbs. Some peaks, like Annapurna I, K2, and Nanga Parbat, are considered the most dangerous, with the highest death rates.

These climbers have not only shown physical endurance but also mental strength, bravery, and dedication. Each has their unique story, but what they share is the relentless pursuit of adventure and pushing the limits of human capability.

This section highlights the monumental achievements of climbers who have summited all 14 eight-thousanders, a feat few in the world have achieved.

Nirmal Purja (British-Nepali)

Nirmal Purja, often called “Nims,” is one of the most remarkable figures in modern mountaineering. His accomplishments have redefined what was thought possible in the world of high-altitude climbing. Here’s a deeper look at his journey:

 

Early Life and Background

• Born: July 25, 1983, in Myagdi, Nepal.
• Purja was raised in a small village in the Dhaulagiri region of Nepal, surrounded by the Himalayas.
• He served as a Gurkha soldier in the British Army and later became part of the UK Special Boat Service (SBS), an elite special forces unit. His military background honed his mental and physical resilience, which later played a key role in his mountaineering career.

Project Possible 14/7

In 2019, Nirmal Purja set out to complete Project Possible, an ambitious goal to summit all 14 eight-thousanders in under 7 months, a feat that had never been attempted in such a short time frame.

• Goal: To summit all 14 eight-thousanders within 7 months.
• Result: He accomplished it in 6 months and 6 days.

Timeline of His Record-Breaking Feat

1. Annapurna I (8,091 m) – April 23, 2019.
2. Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) – May 12, 2019.
3. Kanchenjunga (8,586 m) – May 15, 2019.
4. Everest (8,848 m) – May 22, 2019.
5. Lhotse (8,516 m) – May 22, 2019 (same day as Everest).
6. Makalu (8,485 m) – May 24, 2019.
7. Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) – July 3, 2019.
8. Gasherbrum I (8,080 m) – July 15, 2019.
9. Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) – July 18, 2019.
10. K2 (8,611 m) – July 24, 2019.
11. Broad Peak (8,051 m) – July 26, 2019.
12. Cho Oyu (8,188 m) – September 23, 2019.
13. Manaslu (8,163 m) – September 27, 2019.
14. Shishapangma (8,027 m) – October 29, 2019.

He completed the challenge in just 6 months and 6 days, shattering the previous record of almost 8 years set by Kim Chang-ho of South Korea (without supplemental oxygen).

 

Notable Achievements and Records

• Multiple Summits in a Day: On May 22, 2019, Nims summited Everest and Lhotse within a single day, and then climbed Makalu just 2 days later.
• Rescue Missions: During his record-breaking climbs, Purja saved several climbers. For example, on Kanchenjunga, while descending after summiting, he and his team rescued two stranded climbers at high altitude, putting his record attempt at risk.
• Manaslu Summit Controversy: He returned to Manaslu in 2021 to correct previous “false summits,” showing his commitment to transparency in mountaineering achievements.

The Infamous Photo of Everest Traffic Jam

One of Nirmal Purja’s most famous contributions beyond climbing was the viral photo of a traffic jam on Everest in May 2019. The image captured hundreds of climbers in a long line waiting to summit, highlighting the dangers of overcrowding on the world’s highest peak. This picture brought international attention to the issues of commercialization and crowding on Everest.

 

Supplemental Oxygen and Criticism

• Nims used supplemental oxygen for all his climbs during Project Possible. While some purists argue that this makes the climbs less authentic, Purja has defended his choice, stating that his mission was to challenge speed, not oxygen use. His goal was to break time records, and he successfully did so without compromising safety or ethics.

Post-Project Possible

Since completing Project Possible, Nirmal Purja has become a prominent figure in the mountaineering community:

• Netflix Documentary: His journey was featured in the Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible”, which showcased his record-breaking ascents and his unwavering determination.
• Book: Purja published his memoir, “Beyond Possible”, where he recounts his life story, military service, and extraordinary mountaineering achievements.
• Everest Record: In 2021, Purja made headlines again by announcing he had summited Everest without supplemental oxygen, adding another layer to his list of incredible achievements.

Legacy and Influence

Nirmal Purja’s achievements are not just about breaking records. He has brought a fresh perspective to high-altitude mountaineering, inspiring a new generation of climbers from Nepal and across the world. His journey is a testament to the power of mental strength, perseverance, and the idea that limits can be pushed far beyond what is believed possible.

 

Purja has also highlighted the vital role of Sherpas in Himalayan expeditions, giving them the recognition they have long deserved. By raising awareness about safety issues and the impact of overcrowding on Everest, he has become a strong advocate for sustainable and responsible mountaineering.

 

Nirmal Purja’s journey is one of determination, strength, and the desire to challenge the impossible. His speed record for climbing all eight-thousanders in under 7 months is not just a personal achievement but an inspiration for adventurers everywhere.

 

Conclusion

Climbing all 14 eight-thousanders is a remarkable achievement that represents the pinnacle of human endurance, mental toughness, and skill in mountaineering. From Reinhold Messner’s groundbreaking ascent without oxygen to Nirmal Purja’s record-breaking speed climbs, each climber who has conquered these peaks has left a lasting mark on the history of mountaineering. The dedication and passion of these adventurers continue to inspire new generations of climbers, showing that with determination and grit, even the most daunting challenges can be overcome.

Whether pushing the limits of human endurance like Nims Purja or achieving the feat without oxygen like Messner and Kaltenbrunner, the stories of those who summit the world’s highest peaks reflect an unyielding spirit of exploration and adventure. The legacy of these climbers proves that the impossible is just another challenge waiting to be conquered.

 

 

 

Also read about Mount Everest Guide, and best time to visit EBC